Cooking Local Cape Cod: An Interview with Annie Copps

Boston-based chef and journalist Annie Copps cut her teeth working in the kitchens of Boston’s best restaurants—and as an assistant to Julia Child. She served as food editor for Boston magazine and Yankee magazine, as well as the co-host of Boston Public Radio’s “Daily Dish.” A native New Englander, Copps grew up in Marblehead, and spent many summers with her mother’s side of the family on Cape Cod, in Osterville. Recently, Copps channeled her passion for the cape—and her deep knowledge of New England food—into a cookbook that celebrates the culinary traditions of everyone’s favorite vacation spot: A Little Taste of Cape Cod.

We sat down with the chef-author to talk about how Cape Cod got its name, the dish that’ll cure a broken heart, and the secret to making amazing clam chowder.

What sets Cape Cod food apart?

AC: Cape Cod gets its name from fish: cod. And truly, the seafood is everything. It brought many people to this area, and it is how they make their living. The pristine waters produce a gorgeous bounty, particularly shellfish. And some shellfish—such as oysters—are all about where they’re gathered. Two samples of the same species of oyster can grow 100 yards apart and taste totally different. People get attached to Cotuit oysters; I haven’t met a Cape Cod oyster I didn’t love.

What are the essential ingredients of Cape Cod food, and how do you like to prepare them?

AC: Seafood. Seafood. Seafood. Clams, for example, are delicious fried. Sweet and crunchy, with a little sauce? Amazing. They’re also great raw. Or there’s the stalwart of New England cooking: clam chowder.

Speaking of clam chowder, what sets a truly great clam chowder apart?

AC: I love clam chowder, but not all clam chowders. I believe clam chowder should be about highlighting the clams—otherwise, why bother calling it clam chowder? I also think consistency is important. A great clam chowder doesn’t use too many ingredients, and has just enough viscosity to be comforting on the palate.

What’s the most fascinating topic you learned about while working on this book?

AC: I loved finding out more about the Portuguese and Jamaican communities and their foodways. Provincetown has a thriving Portuguese community, and from those kitchens come some of the tastiest dishes on the cape. Traditional kale and sausage soup is one of those foods that hits you in the heart and the belly. I’ve said it a million times: “It’ll cure a broken heart or a skinned knee.”

Why are cranberries special to Cape Cod locals? What are your three favorite recipes incorporating cranberries, and why?

AC: Cranberries are important and historical—so New England. They’re also one of the few native fruits of North America. When the European settlers arrived, the Native peoples taught them how to gather and use cranberries, and they became part of the New England identity. I put cranberries in everything because I love their tart flavor, but zoinks, their ruby-red color is stunning. There’s the classic Cape Codder cocktail (easily converted into a fancy-pants Cosmopolitan), dried cranberries are a must for granola, and I have a terrific barbecue sauce that really benefits from that special sort of sour note the fruit brings to the mix.

Is there a recipe in the book that you like to make for a particular season?

AC: In fall, I love making the apple crisp—it fills the whole house with the most comforting aromas of apple and warm spices. It’s a harbinger for cold weather to come, which is bittersweet.

What did you love about writing this book?

AC: I loved everything about writing this book. It was a really lovely journey to a place I’m lucky to know and love. Cape Cod is well-known for good reason—it’s a gem.

My mother’s family had a home in Osterville when I was a little girl—it’s where I learned how to swim. It was such a happy place, and every generation was part of the fun. Later, my parents found a spot in Cotuit, and the traditions continued. Sailing, kayaking, fishing, swimming. We always have at least one big lobster dinner every summer, at least 15 people. We start with steamers, then the lobsters and corn. There’s a bit of mayhem, but mostly a lot of magical family stuff, with lightly sunburned kids crawling onto laps, people sharing news of the day, octogenarians reminiscing. So many memories and special moments.

Interested in local cooking? Explore the United States through cooking with the Little Local Cookbooks, a series that highlights landmark culinary destinations around the country, including Cape Cod, Vermont, Maine, New Orleans, Texas, San Francisco, Portland, Oregon, and the Southwest.