Cooking Local Maine: An Interview with Annie Copps

Boston-based chef and journalist Annie Copps cut her teeth working in the kitchens of Boston’s best restaurants—and as an assistant to Julia Child. She served as food editor for Boston magazine and Yankee magazine, as well as the co-host of Boston Public Radio’s “Daily Dish.” Recently, Copps channeled her passion for New England food—and her experiences traveling and reporting in Maine—into a cookbook that honors the rich culinary traditions of the Pine Tree State: The Little Local Maine Cookbook.

We sat down with the chef-author to talk about the potato-rich land, locals’ strong feelings on apple pie, and why Maine lobster really is the best in the world.

What defines Maine’s food? What truly sets it apart?

AC: The bounty of these chilly waters is famous for good reason. It would be hard to disagree that Maine lobster is the best in New England and likely the world. Period. The cold, cold Atlantic waters and the lobsters’ feeding grounds make for meat that’s firm in texture—buttery and almost nut-like in flavor.

For generations, Maine cuisine was simple, old-school cooking, and that is to be celebrated; however, the kitchen revolution, in Portland in particular, can’t be ignored, nor should it. It’s an embarrassment of riches.

Once you knew that you’d be writing this book, what was the first recipe you knew you had to include?

AC: I knew this book had to have a lobster roll. It’s a simple recipe: fresh Maine lobster, enough mayonnaise to hold it together, celery leaves, and—almost as important as the lobster—a top-loading New England hot dog bun, buttered and toasted.

What are the essential ingredients of Maine cuisine?

AC: Seafood in any of its many forms. And certainly potatoes. The Irish immigrants who settled in Aroostook County cleared the land to plant potatoes, and their crops flourished. Now, potatoes show up in all kinds of dishes—from chowder to candy. I didn’t include a recipe for “Needhams,” but Mainers literally eat chocolate-covered potatoes.

What are your three favorite recipes incorporating lobster, and why?

AC: Lobster roll for its simplicity.

Lobster bisque for its elegance.

Lobster pot pie for its versatility.

What’s the most fascinating topic you learned about while researching and writing this book?

AC: I was really interested in the many, many varietals of beans and apples. What was sort of comical was how attached different households are to “their” ingredient. For instance, some families will only use Cattle beans while their next-door neighbor will only use soldier beans, and they will fight about which is best. And with hundreds of different apples varietals available, the discussions about pie and apple butter can get heated.

Which recipe in the book has the best origin story?

AC: The shrimp fritters. I adapted the recipe from a wonderful woman who ran the sweetest B & B on Isle au Haut. (Maine has a bazillion islands, and Isle au Haut is one of the more special large rocks.) I first traveled there when I was working on a story for Yankee magazine on remote or odd places for meals. And this island is out there. You have to get there by mail boat (or your own boat) and, while there’s not much out there, there is more than you could ever need.

What were your inspirations for this book?

AC: I know Maine pretty well, but I really leaned on dear friends who live there for assistance—I didn’t want to miss something obvious. My friend Carolyn’s family had a home on Bailey Island for many generations. Her grandmother, a flinty New Englander, loved raw lobster roe spread on Saltine crackers. It’s definitely an acquired taste. She was a hoot—I had to include it.

What did you love about writing this book?

AC: I am grateful to be able to celebrate this part of the world I live in. I love New England. I am lucky to be able travel quite a bit, and I have seen so much of the world, but at the end of the day, this is where I am from. This place is special and I know it.

Interested in local cooking? Explore the United States through cooking with the Little Local Cookbooks, a series that highlights landmark culinary destinations around the country, including Maine, Vermont, Cape Cod, New Orleans, Texas, San Francisco, Portland, Oregon, and the Southwest.